GT - Manners & Customs (General) acquired during September 2017

New Acquisitions > September 2017 > G - Geography - Anthropology > GT - Manners & Customs (General)

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The social life of kimono : Japanese fashion past and present
Cliffe, Sheila, author
London ; Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2017
1. Think Fashion or Tradition? -- 2. Tracing Trends in Heian and Edo -- 3. Mode Becomes Modern: Meiji to 21st Century -- 4. In Press and Picture: The Published Kimono -- 5. Makers and Marketers -- 6. Wearers and Wardrobes -- 7. Returning Kimono to the Streets Glossary.

"The kimono is an iconic garment with a history as rich and colourful as the textiles from which it is crafted. Deeply associated with Japanese culture both past and present, it has often been thought of as a highly gendered, rigidly traditional and unchanging national costume. This book challenges that perception, revealing the nuanced meanings and messages behind the kimono from the point of view of its wearers and producers, many of whom - both men and women - see the garment as a vehicle for self-expression. Taking a material culture approach, The Social Life of Kimono is the first study to combine the history of the kimono as a fashionable garment with an in-depth exploration of its multifaceted role today on both the street and the catwalk. Through case studies covering historical advertising campaigns, fashion magazines, interviews with contemporary kimono designers, large scale and small craft producers, and consumers who choose to wear them, The Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into making and meaning of this complex garment"--
Baker Berry GT1560 .C59 2017

Food cults : how fads, dogma, and doctrine influence diet
edited by Kima Cargill
Lanham, Maryland : Rowman & Littlefield, [2017]
The Psychology of Food Cults / Kima Cargill -- The Allure Of Food Cults : Balancing Pseudoscience And Healthy Skepticism / Leighann R. Chaffee and Corey L. Cook -- Food Practices In Early Christianity / Paul A. Brazinski -- Longevity Diets in Historical Perspective / Ken Albala -- Juicing : Language, Ritual, And Placebo Sociality In A Community Of Extreme Eaters / Samuel Veissière and Liona Gibbs-Bravo -- Contemporary Superfood Cults : Nutritionism, Neoliberalism and Gender / Tina Sikka -- Gluttons Galore : A Rising Faction in Food Discourses and Dining Experiences / Carlnita Greene -- Caving In : The Appeal of the Paleo Diet in the Wake of 9/11 / Lenore Bell -- "Of Bananas And Cavemen" : Unlikely Similarities Between Two Online Food Communities / Amanda Maxfield and Andrea Rissing -- Eschew Your Food : Foodies, Healthism And The Elective Restrictive Diet / Michele Scott -- Breaking Bread : The Clashing Cults of Sourdough and Gluten-Free / L. Sasha Gora -- The Gluten-Free Cult : A World Without Wheat / Jennifer Martin -- Erasure of Indigenous Food Memories and (Re- )Imaginations / Preety Gadhoke and Barrett P. Brenton -- "Herb Is For The Healing Of The Nation!" : Marijuana As A Consumable Vegetable Among Ghetto Muslim Youth Of Maamobi In Accra, Ghana / De-Valera Botchway and Charles Prempeh -- What Makes A Good Mother? : Mother's Conceptions Of Good Food / Liora Gvion & Irit Sharir.
Baker Berry GT2855 .F658 2017

Africa rising : fashion, design and lifestyle from Africa
edited by Robert Klanten and three others ; texts by Ben Barlow ; preface by Lauren Napier ; additional text by Johanna Macnaughtan ; essays by Katie de Klee and five others
Berlin : Gestalten, 2016
Preface -- Bold new voices -- Sensitive structure -- Tasteful encounters -- Beyond identity -- Global threads -- Index & Imprint.

"A new wave of African creatives is on the rise and making a name for itself in design, fashion, photography, and architecture across Africa and abroad. While colors, patterns, and crafts are profoundly rooted in African tradition, young designers infuse their creations with a delightfully discordant edge making them contemporary, unique, and truly authentic pieces of African design." --Cover.
Baker Berry GT1580 .A55 2016

Making homes : ethnography and design
Pink, Sarah, author
London ; Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 2017
1. Design, Ethnography and Homes -- 2. Temporalities -- 3. Environments -- 4. Activity and Movement -- 5. Methods for Researching Homes -- 6. Homes in Translation.

"Making Homes: Anthropology and Design is a strong addition to the emerging field of design anthropology. Based on the latest scholarship and practice in the social sciences as well as design, this interdisciplinary text introduces a new design ethnography which offers unique and original approaches to research and intervention in the home. Presenting a coherent theoretical and methodological framework for both ethnographers and designers, the authors examine 'hot' topics - ranging from movements and mobilities to im/material environments, to digital culture - and confront the challenges of a research and design environment which seeks to bring about the changes required for a sustainable, resilient, 'safe', and comfortable future. Written by leading experts in the field, the book draws on real-life examples from a wide range of international projects developed by the authors, other researchers, and designers. Illustrations throughout help to convey the methods and research visually. Readers will also have access to a related website which follows the authors' ongoing research and includes video and written narrative examples of ethnographic research in the home. Transforming current understandings of the home, this is an essential read for students and researchers in fields such as design, anthropology, human geography, sociology, and media and communication studies"--
Baker Berry GT170 .P56 2017

Masculinity and dress in Roman antiquity
Olson, K. author
Abingdon, Oxon ; Routledge, an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, 2017
Tunic and toga -- Other aspects of costume -- Poverty, mourning, and sordes -- Clothing and status -- Effeminacy and the dandy : class and sexuality.

Kelly Olson argues that clothing functioned as part of the process of communication by which elite male influence, masculinity, and sexuality were made known and acknowledged, and furthermore that these concepts interconnected in socially significant ways. This volume also sets out the details of masculine dress from literary and artistic evidence and the connection of clothing to rank, status, and ritual. This is the first monograph in English to draw together the myriad evidence for male dress in the Roman world, and examine it as evidence for men's self-presentation, status and social convention.
Baker Berry GT555 .O46 2017

Victorians undone : tales of the flesh in the age of decorum
Hughes, Kathryn, 1959- author
London : 4th Estate, 2017
"A groundbreaking account of what it was like to live in a Victorian body from one of our best historians ... brings the Victorians back to life and helps us understand how they lived their lives"--Publisher's description.
Baker Berry GT497.G7 H84 2017

Cremation, corpses and cannibalism : comparative cosmologies and centuries of cosmic consumption
Kaliff, Anders, author
Newcastle upon Tyne, United Kingdom : Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2017
Baker Berry GT3330 .K35 2017

The work of the dead : a cultural history of mortal remains
Laqueur, Thomas Walter
Princeton, New Jersey : Princeton University Press, 2015
Preface -- Acknowledgments -- Introduction: Work of the dead -- Part 1: Deep Time Of The Dead: -- Do the dead matter? -- Dead body and the persistence of being -- Cultural work of the dead -- Part 2: Places Of The Dead: -- Churchyard And The Old Regime: -- Development of the church-yard -- Language -- Place -- Church and churchyard in the landscape -- Necrogeography -- Necrobotany -- Necrotopology and memory -- Life and afterlife of the churchyard in literature -- Passage of the dead to the churchyard -- Law : Exclusion from the churchyard -- Claims of the dead body on the parish churchyard -- Claims of the parish on the dead body -- Economics of churchyard burial -- Right to burial and the crisis of the old regime -- Enlightenment Scandals: -- Voltaire -- David Hume -- Cemetery And The New Regime: -- Danger of the dead and the rise of the cemetery -- Genealogies Of The New Regime: -- Imagination : Elysium, arcadia, and the dead of the Eighteenth Century -- Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise -- Distant lands and the imperial imagination -- Age Of The Cemetery: -- Novelty -- Necrogeography and Necrobotany -- Cemeteries and capitalism -- Religious pluralism in the age of the cemetery -- Reform, revolution, and the cemetery -- Class, family, and the cemetery -- Putting the dead in their place: pauper funerals and proper funerals, burials and reburials -- Disrupted bodies -- Part 3: Names Of The Dead: -- Names Of The Dead In Deep Time: -- Names of the dead in times of war -- Names of the dead in times of peace -- Rise of the names of the dead in modern history -- Age Of Necronominalism: -- Names over bodies -- Names and the absent but present body -- Monumental names -- Names of the vanished dead -- Names of the great war: -- Part 4: Burning The Dead: -- Disenchantment and cremation -- Ashes and history -- Different enchantments -- Ashes in their place -- Afterword: From a history of the dead to a history of dying -- Notes -- Image credits -- Index -- Plates follow page.

"The Greek philosopher Diogenes said that when he died his body should be tossed over the city walls for beasts to scavenge. Why should he or anyone else care what became of his corpse? In The Work of the Dead, acclaimed cultural historian Thomas Laqueur examines why humanity has universally rejected Diogenes's argument. No culture has been indifferent to mortal remains. Even in our supposedly disenchanted scientific age, the dead body still matters--for individuals, communities, and nations. A remarkably ambitious history, The Work of the Dead offers a compelling and richly detailed account of how and why the living have cared for the dead, from antiquity to the twentieth century. The book draws on a vast range of sources--from mortuary archaeology, medical tracts, letters, songs, poems, and novels to painting and landscapes in order to recover the work that the dead do for the living: making human communities that connect the past and the future. Laqueur shows how the churchyard became the dominant resting place of the dead during the Middle Ages and why the cemetery largely supplanted it during the modern period. He traces how and why since the nineteenth century we have come to gather the names of the dead on great lists and memorials and why being buried without a name has become so disturbing. And finally, he tells how modern cremation, begun as a fantasy of stripping death of its history, ultimately failed--and how even the ashes of the victims of the Holocaust have been preserved in culture. A fascinating chronicle of how we shape the dead and are in turn shaped by them, this is a landmark work of cultural history."--
Baker Berry GT3150 .L37 2015

Dandy lion : the black dandy and street style
Lewis, Shantrelle P., 1978- author
New York, N.Y. : Aperture, 2017
Fashion statement -- People and personalities -- Designers and tailors -- Photographers.

Black men appropriating, subverting, and reinventing the dress styles of society elites, described as "high-styled rebels" by author Shantrelle P. Lewis-are influencing the language of contemporary fashion. 'Dandy Lion' presents and celebrates the black dandy movement, and its designers and tailors, in photographs and stories from all over the world. Exhibition: Brighton Photo Biennial, UK (01.-31.10.2016) / Lowe Museum of Art, Miami, United States (02.-05.2017).
Baker Berry GT6720 .L49 2017

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